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LiftMaster and Chamberlain Flashing Lights: What the Codes Mean

If the opener lights flash ten times, the safety sensors are blocked or misaligned. Newer openers also blink a two-part code on the up and down arrow lights: count the up-arrow flashes, then the down-arrow flashes, and look the pair up below.

Works for:
LiftMaster, Chamberlain, and Craftsman openers with up and down arrow LEDs on the motor unit (Security+ 2.0 and newer). Older openers flash codes on the learn button LED and use a different chart.

Written by the ClearTech Garage Doors team in Winnipeg and checked against manufacturer documentation. Updated .

Step by step

  1. Step 1: Count the flashes. Ten flashes of the opener lights after a failed close almost always means the safety sensors.

  2. Step 2: On newer units, watch the up arrow and the down arrow on the motor unit. The up arrow blinks first, then the down arrow. Count each.

  3. Step 3: Find the pair in the table below. A code of 1-1 means one up-arrow flash and one down-arrow flash.

  4. Step 4: Fix the obvious cause, then run the door once. If the code comes back, write it down before you call.

What does each code mean?

CodeWhat it meansWhat to do
Lights flash 10 times, or 1-1Safety sensors blocked, misaligned, or disconnectedClear the beam, clean the lenses, and align the sensors until both LEDs glow steady.
1-2Safety sensor wires shorted or reversedFollow both sensor wires back to the opener and look for staples, pinches, or swapped connections.
1-5The motor ran but the door barely moved. It hums or clicks and moves less than 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 inches)Disconnect the opener with the red release cord and lift the door by hand. If it's heavy or stuck, the door needs work. If it moves freely, the motor or board does.
1-6The door kept moving after the opener stoppedUsually an out-of-balance door from a weak spring. Have the springs checked.
2-1 to 2-5Logic board faultUnplug the opener for a few seconds and plug it back in. If the code returns, the logic board needs replacing.
4-1 or 4-2The door met too much resistance closing (4-1) or opening (4-2)Disconnect the opener and lift the door by hand. If it's heavy or sticks, look at the springs, rollers, and tracks.
4-3 or 4-4The opener lost track of the motor's movement while closing (4-3) or opening (4-4)Check the door for binding. If it moves freely, this usually needs a technician.
4-5Travel module not recognised, often after a part was replacedCheck the travel module connection or have it serviced.
3-5 (wall-mount models)Cable tension monitor tripped: a lift cable went slackLeave the door where it is. A slack or jumped cable needs a technician, and the opener won't run until it's reset.
5-5 (wall-mount models)The myQ remote light isn't paired, so the opener won't run from the appPair the remote light to the opener. Wall-mount units require it for unattended operation.

Still not working? Here is what it usually is.

  • The same code keeps coming back after the fix, which usually means a failing part rather than a setting.
  • A resistance or movement code on a door that's hard to lift by hand points to a weak or broken spring.
  • No code at all and no response points to power, the logic board, or the motor.

We diagnose the whole system, opener, door, sensors, and remotes, and tell you plainly whether it's a quick fix or time for a new unit.

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